Separate a slow crank from a fast crank
If the starter barely turns the engine, charge and load-test the battery and check the cables before you buy injectors or a fuel pump. A weak battery mimics almost every other fault.
If the engine spins briskly and still will not run, the battery is less interesting. Then the question is whether it has fuel, spark, and enough compression to light off.
What riders can safely note before the shop
Say whether it failed cold or hot, after a wash, after it sat, or right after an electrical accessory was added. Note any recent tip-over. Do not keep cranking until the battery is flat; that erases useful voltage tests.
A smell of fuel, a blinking immobilizer, or a kill switch that does not feel right are worth mentioning. They are clues, not a diagnosis.
Why this becomes a shop job
Confirming spark, injector pulse, fuel delivery, and compression means fairings and connectors on a sportbike, plus the judgment not to condemn a coil because a ground was loose. That is the no-start path on the diagnostics service.
If compression is the failure, the engine repair page is the next conversation. Electrical charging faults that only appear after a ride are a different guide.